Monday, 5 September 2016

[2016 日本 Japan] 屋久島 繩文衫 Yakushima Jomon cedar Hike

成就鹿兒島之行是因為想到屋久島行山,看看那個宮崎駿筆下的幽靈公主深林,看著其他人拍的照片,森林只有翠綠、深綠和超級綠,真的很吸引。另外亦被心型樹洞吸引著,晚上在這裡看星星,真的很浪漫。
The main reason we travelled to  Kagoshima is to  hike in Yakushima. We would like to explore the magic forest which Japanese animator Miyazaki describe in "Princess Mononoke" (1997). We have found so many pictures  of the  green forest. It is formed by various level of green. The sun shine on the top of the tree  reflecting  lime green. The grass on the sides  of the path are  spring green.  When there is no sunshine going through the forest, it becomes jade green. Aside from that, the  Wilson Stump also attracted us . It would be very romantic to lay down at night to see the star. 
     


出發前不停在網上翻查資料,幸好找到很多具參考性的資料,掌握到行山路綫、所需時間﹑交通公具時間表等,唯一掌握不到的就是天!氣!屋久島一個月有35天雨天,要大放天晴難過中六合彩,但我一直到登山那一秒都希望天氣會突然變好,我太天真了!
We have found a lot of useful information on the internet which helped us to  know more about the hiking route, how long does each route take to complete, the schedule for the public transport. There is only one thing we cannot plan - the weather.  Yakushima rains 35 days a month. It depends on your luck to have a bright sunny day. I was hoping to have a nice weather, praying  until the last second before I was up on the hill. 

熱門登山路綫有兩條,1) 輕鬆白谷雲水峽,需時2小時,就是看幽靈公主場景的路綫;2) 重量級繩文杉,由荒川登山口出發,來回20公里,預計需時10-12小時。我們決定分兩天進行,第一天先到繩文杉,然後夜宿森林小屋,第二天完成白谷雲水峽。
The top two hike routes are: 1) Two hour hike at  Shirantani  which is suitable for beginner. It is also the route  to explore the  movie scene of Princess Mononoke; 2)  Heavy route from Arakawa Tozan-guchi to  Jomon cedar with 20km round trip. It is estimated to complete in 10-12 hours. We decided to do both in two days. We will hike to Jomon cedar on the first day, then stay overnight at the lodge  and  continue the hike to Shirantani  the next day.

出發前收拾行裝
Packing up a night before
出發前的夜晚,下著大雨,我很擔心,雨水打在屋頂的聲音伴著我入睡,帶著不安半睡半醒下至清晨四時,登山的時刻終於到了!
The night before our hike was raining so heavily. I was so worry deep in my heart and tried to sleep with the background sound of raindrop hitting the rooftop.  I  hardly fell asleep more because of the worry than the raindrop. Finally it was 4am which was the time to start our day.


整裝待發,穿上鮮豔的運動裝盡量令自己顯得精神點,試圖掩蓋失眠的氣息。天還未亮,在漆黑黑的小街走向巴士站,心情很興奮。未來十數個小時將會是充滿未知數,不知道山上天氣、不知道山路有多崎嶇、更擔心自己能否應付。
Dressed up with the brightest outfit to  make myself look more energetic but  not looking exhausted.  We walked in the dark to the bus stop and it implied that adventure started. We did not know what would it be in the coming ten hours,  it was full of uncertainty.  We did not know  the actual weather up on the hill,  how hard the path became and I was hopping my  physical strength can handle the hike. 

在巴士站等待著巴士,日本的巴士很準時,說好了04:52就是04:52,一分鐘都不多不小!時間差不多,漆黑的街角出現兩道黃光,越來越清晰,聽到汽車的引擎聲漸近,最後看到巴士隨隨到達,那感覺好像龍貓的貓巴士來接我們。
Arriving at the bus stop on time,  as how punctual the transport in Japan is. If it scheduled at 04:52, it will be  exactly 04:52. Exactly! No earlier or later.  While it was almost the time,  we  saw  two  yellow light  around the corner, it became  clearer.  The  sound of the car engine got louder as well. Finally we  saw our bus and it seems like the  Totoro  bus came and picked up us.  


巴士一路向山上走,乘客比想像中小,居然沒有坐滿巴士,由只有我們兩個,最終變成九、十個,大家目標一致,就是要走訪繩文杉!!!但到達巴士總站屋久島自然館,我看到已經有三數十人在等接駁巴士到荒川登山口,他們是坐更早到達的巴士上山嗎?為什麼可以比我們更早呢?
The bus kept heading up and the passengers were  less than I expect.  It was just us at the beginning and then there were a few more got on to  have nine of us. We all have the same goal - Jomon cedar. When we arrived at  Yakusugi Shizenkan (Yukasugi Museum), it was a surprised to see a long queue  at the bus stop. A big group were there  for the shuttle to Arakawa Tozan-guchi.  I thought the bus we took  was  the only possible  public transport on  earth to  arrive  at  Yukasugi Museum. Why can they arrive that early? 

大部份登山客都是日本人,一組四、五個人聘請一個登山導遊帶領,日本人連行山都這麼認真!
Most of the hikers were Japanese.  They were in a group of four to five and led by an experienced hiking guide. Japanese are always  conscientious no matter what they do.


接駁巴士到達,人太多,部份人未能登上第一班車,但大家仍然守規矩一個跟一個上車,如果換著在國內,應該不會這麼和平。由自然館出發,大約40分鐘便到達荒川登山口,那裡有一個小木屋可先稍作整理,吃過早飯才正式出發。
When the shuttle bus arrived, people lined up one by one to get on the bus. Although there were a lot of passengers and some of us had to wait for the next bus,  no choas happened. If it happened to be in China, I bet it will not be so peaceful.  It takes 40min from Yukasugi Museum to Arakawa Tozan-guchi. There is a hut at the entrance of  Arakawa Tozan-guchi which provide hikers to have a light meal before the hike. 



全程將會:1) 在舊火車軌上行走,大約三小時火車軌路,起初感覺很新鮮,在連接兩邊車軌之間的木條一跳一跳向前走,但走了半小時開始感到苦悶,加上下著大雨,地面全是積水,水濺濕了長褲!幸好登山鞋防水功能好,腳底沒有入水,只是到回程時才感到一點兒濕濕的感覺,不然未到繩文杉已經濕透,10小時醃鹹魚,雙腳絕不好受。
The entire route includes: 1) Walking on the abandoned train rail for three hours. Yes! It was very nice at the first beginning.  There is a wooden board connected the two sides of the rail. I jumped forward from one to another. However, after half a hour plus under the rain, I found it was tedious already. The puddles totally wetted my pants.  Luckily, the hiking shoes is highly water-proof and my feet stayed dry. It only happened to feel wet when I returned. It would be a disaster if my feet were wet before reaching Jomon cedar.  Imagine - 10 hours of marinated feet, could be very tasty for pork knuckle. 




部份火車軌連接著兩邊山崖,兩邊有時沒有護欄,橋上的火車軌之間並非完全密封,只有中間鋪上木條,左右兩邊中空,走在上面,腳下就是湍急的河水,由於大雨關係,水流更急,深怕一陣風吹來便把我吹下河。
Part of the rails connected to two  cliffs and there is no  barrier at all. Besides, the wooden paths on the rail are not fully covering the rail. We had to walk carefully in the middle. Down underneath is a river, due to the heavy rain, the water flow became more strong. I imagined if a strong wind come at that moment, I would probably blown down to the river.  It was quite dangerous. 




2) 終於走完漫長的火車軌,變成行樓梯!雖然山路開始斗峭,但幸好有樓梯,仍然可以一步一級向上走。但始終有落差,不像走平路,所以每上一段便要停下來休息。當自己放慢了腳步,後面卻跟著人龍上山,深怕自己拖慢了他們的速度,壓力很大。
2) After the rail, it is the stair.  It is very steep, but with the help of the stair, I managed to step up one by one.  However, the deviance between  steps are high and it is really different from walking on a flat and even road. I needed some rest in between sections. I felt pressure when I slowed down  while a long queue  followed behind me. I did not want to bother them and stuck on the way.

3) 中段還有一段沿河流走的山路,沒有加置樓梯,只能踏著石頭向上走,我不時手腳並用借助平衡,以免滑到,過程總算順利。雨勢減弱的時候,更可以欣賞森林周邊的自然景色,拍照留念。
3) In between stairs, a section was set along the river. There is no stair but only rock. People walked on them and I climbed on them with my hands and feet because I do not want to slip myself. It was slow way but safe way. Finally when the weather was better with less rainy, we could really head up and appreciated the beautiful nature around us. 




走了無數的樓梯,上氣不接下氣,臉上和身上沾滿雨水和汗水,一切都已經豁出去,那刻只想快點完成,回民宿浸一個熱水浴好好休息。
Accomplished to walk up 1000+ stairs made me lose my legs. I need to take some rest; my face and body became so sticky. It combined with sweat and rain water. At that moment, I can do anything for someone if I could have a hot shower and bath immediately.

(TBC.....)

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