Saturday, 22 July 2017

[2016 斯里蘭卡 Sri Lanka] 我不懂手語 + Mirissa 觀鯨 I don't do sign language + Whale Watching in Mirissa

標形大漢的出現,令我猜想他們見奸計未能得呈,決定強搶打劫,我腎上腺素立即急升…心跳如坐過山車般加快…
The muscular guys in front of me scared me. I was imagining what they want to do with us. Do they decide to use force as we refused to stay at their guesthouse? I felt so anxious and my heartbeat was super fast.

身處黑暗的內街,四周烏燈黑火,我們坐在Tuk Tuk車內,無門無窗完全無安全感,一手可以被人捉下車,真的叫天不應叫地不聞。標形大漢查問發生甚麼事,司機和他們用斯語對答,我們當然聽不懂,這時我提議他們打電話給民宿老闆查問地址,好讓我們趕快離開。Moritz拿著自己的電話撥打著號碼,我心裡大叫著NO!!!!不要拿出我們的電話‼ 因為我怕是陷阱,他們會搶走我們的電話,心裡開始煩躁。電話接通,民宿老闆說我們離不遠,著我們把電話給司機,好讓他教他怎走。掛斷電話,司機表示沒問題,開車轉個彎不用一分鐘我們便到了民宿門口,老闆在等著我們。這是在斯國以來我遇到最氣憤的事,果然如Khan所料遇上壞人!
Inside the alleys and surrounded by darkness, I sit in the Tuk Tuk without any sense of comfort. I could be dragged out of the car easily by someone on the street. Then my life would totally changed. The muscular guy asked what was happening in Sri Lankan and the drivers told them the whole story. At that point, I hope I could understand something. I suggested them to call the owner of our guesthouse for direction and we could get out of here asap. Moritz held his phone and called immediately and I don't know if he could hear me yelling very loud in my hard saying NO! DON'T USE OUR PHONE! I was afraid that it is part of their trap and they will steal our phone from us. I was so annoyed. The call connected and the owner said we were not far away. He asked us to pass the phone to the driver so that he could explain and guide him the way. The driver hung up and said no problem. He started his engine and we arrived at the correct entrance with only one minute ride. The owner was waiting for us. This is the first time in Sri Lanke that I had such a bad experience and I was so mad. Khan - this time I felt that you are not the worst!

舟車勞頓了半天,立即放下行李,先洗個澡,靜下來才發現這間沙灘民宿就在海灘旁邊,聽著海浪聲,房間和四周的設計很夏天,色彩繽紛,心情變得舒暢。
Spent half a day on the road, we dropped our stuff to take a shower. It was so wonderful. I then realised the guesthouse is right next to the beach as I heard the sound of wave. The design of the guesthouse is Summer with colourful mural. It brings lots of joy to the guests.


在民宿的餐廳外坐著一對西方男女,剛到達路經時一個人都沒有,可能也是剛到達的旅客,和他們打招呼說Hello! ,男的看到我們,但沒甚麼回應,女的更完全沒有轉身回應,我感到他們很沒禮貌,我看著Moritz問他有沒有聽到他們回應,他說沒有,然後他細心觀察,看到他們在打手勢,猜想他們應該是聽障人士。
A pair of western couple sit outside the cafe of the guesthouse. We didn't see anyone there when we arrived, they should be just arrived. We said Hello to them and the guy looked at us without any response while the girl did not even turn around. I felt like they are so impolite. I looked at Moritz and asked if he heard their feedback to confirm if I misunderstood anything. He also said No. But he tried to observe them and found some hand movement between them. So he guessed they may be hearing handicapped.

我恍然大悟,怪不得剛剛女生「沒有禮貌」,原來自己錯怪好人!女生是比利時人叫Kimmie, 男生叫Rolf, 是荷蘭人,他們是對情侶,細問之下原來我們的行程也是差不多,由Colombo出發一路向中部、山區向南走,他們玩的城市比我們多,相對逗留的時間較短,終於我們在Matara碰面。
I was shock and felt guilty of saying they are impolite. The girl Kimmie is Belgian and the guy Rolf is from Netherlands. They are a couple and we actually shared similar itinerary - start from Colombo and head Central province, then to the Mountain and down South. They stopped by more cities than we did and chose a hop on hop off style. Finally we met in Matara.

這晚有他們相伴,我們不諳手語,只能筆談,感覺十分有趣。老闆說海龜有機會這幾天來產卵,叫我們到海灘碰碰運氣,我們四人開著手機電筒沿路搜尋著海龜的足跡,Rolf不時捉起招潮蟹嚇Kimmie, Kimmie便會尖叫,我們便會大笑。邊笑邊走,沒有看到海龜,但這夜很高興認識這對情侶。
This night, we were happy to meet them and spent time together. Neither Moritz nor I know sign language, we mainly communicate via pen and paper. It was not a big issue. The owner told us the sea turtle may come back these days to lay egg and asked us to tried our luck on the beach. We four walked on the beach with the phone torch and started to search for sea turtle. Rolf knew Kimmie afraid of crab, so he always grab some to scared Kimmie. Moritz and I found that so funny and this prank is a love action. We didn't see any sea turtle tonight but was very glad to meet this lovely couple from the other side of the world.

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半夜5時,我們起床準備到Mirissa出海看鯨魚,碰上看鯨季節,當然不要錯過。碼頭有幾十隻船停泊,岸上站滿了旅客,大家都興致勃勃,十分興奮和期待。
5AM - We woke up and headed to Mirissa for whale. December is the season and we should not miss that. There were more than twenty boats stand by at the shore and tons of tourists were waiting. Everyone brought the excited mood with them and very looking forward to meeting the whale. 

出發前一杯齋啡可防止暈船浪
One cup of black coffee before voyage can avoid seasickness

乘坐的雙層小船,比渡海小輪還小,所以出到大海,遇上大浪,路程變得顛簸,整架船都快要被翻起,全部乘客尖叫十分刺激,坐下層的乘客更被拍打到船身的浪花濺濕。
The double deck boat is smaller than the star ferry in Hong Kong. When we were on the ocean, the wave shake the boat and the journey was tough. I was afraid the boat is gonna flip upside down and everyone screamed out loud. Those passengers in the lower deck got all soaked because the wave was too strong. 


航行了差不多1.5小時,看見船員和船長交頭接耳,有所動作,原來我們已經靠近大海,他們看見鯨魚出現。船長著我們一眾乘客守秩序到船頭坐好,他便會全速前進靠近鯨魚,保證乘客可以作近距離接觸和拍到鯨魚的照片。
It took us 1.5 hours to get to the ocean. We finally see the captain had some discussion with the crew and they started pointing into the sea. We were close to the ocean and they saw some whale. Captain asked us to go to the front one by one and sit down. Then he sailed closer to the whale and make sure all of us would have a good shot. 


我一於一手相機ready, 一手死抓著船上的欄杆以防被拋出大海,靜待鯨魚亮相。船長瞄準水面噴出的水柱前進,因為水柱就是鯨魚氣孔噴出來的水。突然水面出現兩三條水柱,大家都十分興奮,終於見到巨鯨滑溜溜的身軀浮出水面,然後一個擺尾,謀殺了大家不小菲林。我最想看到的其實是鯨魚頭,因為當地人說這裡會有藍鯨、座頭鯨、抹香鯨出沒,單看尾巴我真的不知道我眼前的是那種鯨魚,因為我就是要看藍鯨嘛!但想想船長應該都知道大家的目標就是來賞藍鯨,加上斯國是全世界觀賞藍鯨的好地方,所以我相信自己看到的就是藍鯨啦!
I was having my camera ready with one hand, the other hand was grabbing the pole very hard. I don't want to be the snack of the whale or else. Captain had good eyes. He headed to wherever he saw water fountain splashed out of water surface. The fountain is made from the air hole of the whale. Good to learn this fact. When we spotted two to three fountains, we were so excited. We could see the whale swimming and his very shinny body over the water. Finally he shown us his giant tail and everyone was busy for some nice pictures. I would love to see the head of the whale. The local told me various kinds of whale like blue whale, humpback whale, sperm whale will come over during the high season. I cannot tell which kind without seeing their face. I want to confirm the one I saw is the biggest whale in the world - Blue Whale. Without clue. I can only trust the captain knew everyone wants to hunt the blue whale, so he will make this come true. Also, Sri Lanka is the best place for blue whale watching, so I could 99% confirm I have seen them.


船公司承諾看不到鯨魚不回航,所以『捕』鯨30分鐘後,船長表示回程,大家都心滿意足返回坐位。回程途中急不及待觀賞拍到的影片和相片,真的十分回味!
The whale watching company promise the customers if no whale was found, we won't go back. Since we found some after 30 minutes, captain decided to head back and everyone was satisfied. We were enjoying the movie and pictures we made on our way back. It was such a nice experience.

回到沙灘民宿,遇上Kimmie和Rolf在浮潛,本來我打算到下一站Hikkaduwa才浮潛,但Rolf示意有海龜,我立刻衝回房間,換上泳裝下水,看海龜是我此行其中一個目的。
We met Kimmie and Rolf again in the guesthouse. I planned to do snorkeling in Hikkaduwa. But I changed my plan when Rolf told me there was sea turtle. I should not miss it as watching sea turtle is one of my goal in the trip.



海灘的水很清,在岸上都看到珊瑚,一群一群小魚游來游去,我跟著Rolf游,果然看到海龜。十分巨大,有人拿著海草餵牠,引牠回岸,看見牠的尖齒大口有口地咬海草,我有點害怕,但海龜其實看起來很和藹可親,我最後忍不住追著牠游走。
The water was super clear and I can see the sea coral already. A bunch of fish were swimming around you and I followed Rolf to hunt the sea turtle. He is super huge. Someone tried to allure him back to the shore with some seaweed and seagrass. When he bit the grass, I can see his shape teeth which scared me a bit. It heard if he bit me. However, they look super kind and cute and I still love them. I followed him swimming along the sea for a while. 



可能是因為在對的地方遇上對的人做對的事,一切都變得美好,很可惜我們只留在Matara一天,否則我便有第二次遇見海龜的機會。告別Kimmie & Rolf, 約好在Hikkaduwa再見,我們便坐巴士到Hikkaduwa, 特快列車約一小時即可到達。如果看到巴士車頭顯示一個紅色圓圈裡面有個紅色交叉的符號,表示巴士綫是特快列車,不停小站,如果我們早點學懂,可能由Haputale到Matara的車程可以縮短。
Everything is beautiful when you are in a right place meeting the right person doing the right thing. It was such a pity to stay in Matara for only one day. Otherwise, i could spend more time with the sea turtle. Saying goodbye to Kimmie & Rolf and hopefully see them again in Hikkaduwa. The express bus took us one hour only. We learnt to distinguish express bus if there is a red cross in a red circle symbol next to the bus number. It means it doesn't stop at village stop. I hope I learnt this earlier and perhaps we would spend less time for the bus ride from Haputale to Matara. 


由google map顯示,從車站到住宿只需15分鐘,所以決定走路。沿路有幾位tuk tuk車司機招生意,我便告訴他目的地就在前面而婉拒,怎料他沒有放棄,一定要幫忙,最後免費都要接載我們,他真的十分熱心!又遇上好人;)
From the google map, it takes 15 minutes walk from the station to the guesthouse. A couple of tuk tuk drivers approached us for a ride. We kindly told him we were close. But he didn't give up and insisted to help us. Finally he offered us a free ride. He is such a nice people. It was a nice day. :)

晚餐自己煮,到超市買了蔬菜和水果,十分豐富。但住宿提供的所謂廚房,用具和衛生真的很差,在廚房已經看見兩隻勁大小強四處走,令我們決定明天立即離開換住宿。
We bought some vegetables and fruit from the supermarket to prepare dinner. The good thing of the guesthouse is that kitchen is equipped but the hygiene is quite dissatisfying. We saw two big cockroaches walking along the house while we were having dinner. It made us decided to leave this place asap tomorrow morning.   

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