昨天接載我們由曼德勒山回酒店的導遊在上車介紹他們提供的包車服務，說可以載我們到市外不同景點，如烏本橋﹑馬哈根德昂伽江僧院看僧人吃早飯﹑三個必遊古城和特色佛塔，但導遊說因為烏本橋和僧院相近，會安排在早上到訪，那就是說不會看到烏本橋的日落？？？NO!!! 我們此行的重點行程就是要到烏本橋看日落，如果看不到，絕對是遺憾，所以即使他們只要求40美金，我們都無奈拒絕。機場報價50美金，酒店報價45美金，目前為止他們二人組是最平。
Last night, the guide and driver who drove us from Mandalay Hill back to hotel suggested us to rent their car and they could drive us around Mandalay and the outskirt such us U Bein Bridge, Maha Ganayon Kyaung Monastery to see the monks while they are having their meal, three recommended old towns and wonderful pagodas. The guide said she will bring us to both the Bridge and the Monastery in the morning because these are nearby, which mean we are not able to see the sunset at the Bridge. NO WAY!!!! To see the sunset at the Bridge is the most important part of the trip. If I cannot make it, it would be definitely a regret to me. Although they offered us USD40 which is the cheapest we quoted so far, we had to reject her. The vendor in the airport offered USD50 and the hotel offered USD45.
導遊知道我們的拒絕的原因，司機說了一句，她便連翻說YES! YES! No Problem, we can take you there. I can arrange it! 她還說早上會先載我們到市內景點遊覽，再到僧院看僧人吃早飯。黃昏回到烏本橋。我十分滿意安排，本來還擔心剩下兩天沒有時間到訪庫克多佛塔，但因為他們，我們沒有錯過這個市內景點。
When the guide understood our concern and the driver said it is no problem. She said immediately "YES! YES! No Problem, we can take you there. I can arrange it!" She could bring us to visit some main attractions in the town, then head to the Monastery to see the monks having the meal, lastly head back to the Bridge in the evening. I don't have any objection, that is actually perfect to us because I was worrying we won't have time to explore the town in coming days. Now, they solved our problem!!!
約好早上8時由酒店出發，之前看過其他遊客稱第二天接他們的司機，並不是前一晚約好那個，還訛稱是司機的親戚，最後又藉口要額外收費，令遊客感覺不良好，事後知道他們當然不是親戚關係，只是同在一個集團工作，工作是由公司安排。因此當我看到來接我們的是昨晚的二人組，我立刻感到放心。
We scheduled to meet again at 8am at our hotel. I learnt from other experience that the tourists got picked up by another driver rather than the one they met the night before. The substitute one lied he is the relative of the original one and ended up using excuses to ask for more money. This incident gave the tourists a very negative impression. They found out eventually they are not relative, but just working under the same group. The job is assigned by the company. As a result, when I saw the same guide and driver picked us up, I felt a bit released.
首先被帶到庫克多佛塔(Kuthodaw Pagoda)，在緬甸眾多佛塔裡，這個比較特別，因為這裡有全世界最大的經書，說的就是包圍著佛塔的729個經書亭，每個亭內都有載著經文的石碑。據說，如果要看畢所有石碑上的經文，便要花上450天。
As said, they brought us to the first attraction in town - Kuthodaw Pagoda, which is quite outstanding from the rest in Mandalay because you will find the largest book in the world here. There are 729 stone-inscription caves which contain a marble slab inscribed on both sides with a page of text from the Tipitaka, the entire Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism. ( according to Wikipedia ) If you would like to finish reading the Book, it would take you 450 days.
我們就在這裡被一個緬甸婦女捉住，硬要在我們臉上畫上Thanakha, 樹皮粉混水而成的防曬膏，常見當地男女老幼塗在臉上，畫上不同圖案。世上沒有免費午餐，塗罷後她當然要我們付錢啦，而我覺得是妳硬要給我們畫，拒絕妳結果妳仍不放棄，我是不會付錢，否則對自己不公平。
We were stopped here by a Myanmar woman who insisted to place Thanakha on our faces. Thanakha is made from grained tree skin and water. It is a suncream which the local from all ages and gender put on the face and like drawing different patterns. It also shown as the national sign too. No surprise the woman asked for money once she has done. However, the truth is that we had refused her offer but she insisted to do it on us. There is no point to give her money if that is not what I ask for. If I give her money, it would be not fair to myself.
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十分堅持的阿姨 the lady insists to put us Thanakha |
有些人說這裡要付入場費(10美金聯票) ，但事實沒有人要求我們付款，亦看不到售票處，所以我相信庫克多佛塔是免費開放。
Some information said that this Pagoda required entrance fee - USD10 tourist pass, but we don't see any ticket counter or anyone ask us to pay for entry. I believe here is free entry.
到訪曼德勒可選擇買10美元門票，參觀金色宮殿僧院﹑曼德勒皇宮和因瓦古城，但我們沒有打算到因瓦，加上聽說過沒去皇宮也沒有損失太多，我們沒有加在行程中。導遊帶了我們到另一個地方，說這裡是皇宮的迷你版，同樣看到佛寺﹑一大尊佛像和與參照皇宮而建的建築，金碧輝煌，所以吸引許多緬甸人來抖暑休息。
The USD10 tourist pass included entrance fee to Shwenandaw Monastery, the Palace and Inwa Old Town. Since we did not plan to go to Inwa and were told that it won't hurt much if we miss the Palace, we did not get the ticket. The guide instead brought us to another place which is so called the mini Palace with same design as the real Palace, contains the pagoda, big Buddha and also shining in the gold. It attracted a lot of Myanmar people to take rest and stay away from the sun.
離開市中心向市郊出發，到達馬哈根德昂伽江僧院還未到10時，時間充裕，但已經有許多遊客在等待著。僧人每天準時10:30集合在這僧院吃早飯，對於每天都有遊客來看自己吃飯已經見慣不怪。
Leaving the town and started exploring the outskirt, we still had enough time to Maha Ganayon Kyaung Monastery. It was not yet 10am when we arrived and many tourists were waiting already. Thousands of monks will line up outside the monastery at 10:30am for their first meal. They should be used to so many people watching them for their meal and not understand why would that be so interesting.
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準備早飯 Preparing the meal |
穿紅色袈裟的僧人一個跟一個排好，手上抱著化緣托缽，排最後的是一班小沙彌，因為他們還未決定是否要成為僧人，所以穿上白色袈裟。
All the monks, wearing proper red monks' robes, stood in two lines and held a black food container on their hands. After them are the little monks who still have not make up their mind to be a monk, that's why what have the white robes.
多數年長的僧侶外表十分嚴肅，目無表情，反之某些年輕小僧侶仍未擺脫稚氣，始終是小朋友，總會是比較貪玩。有一個小僧侶不停用托缽頂撞前面比他大的僧侶，然後臉露得意笑容。
The elder monks look serious and without any facial expression. It had a big contrast with those little one who still can't get rid of the childish because they are supposed to play at this age. Back to normal, they are just a kid. A little one tried to use the food container to poke the elder monk's back and felt happy with the prank.
每個僧侶都會帶著自己的杯來吃早飯，通常都是簡簡單單款式，如不銹鋼杯或是淨色塑膠杯，但偶然會看到其他帶圖案的玻璃杯，如Winnie the Pooh! 果然充滿童真！
Every monk brings along with their cup for the meal, which mostly with the same style - stainless steel or plastic plain colour. It would be surprised to spot some different one like a Winnie the Pooh glass cup and surprisingly from a youth monk.
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找重點 Look at the Winnie the Pooh!!! |
假如要前往明根Mingun，一般都可坐渡輪，但每天只有一班，上午9時前往，下午1時離開，所以如果我們去了僧院便不能坐渡輪到明根。幸好，導遊和司機很貼心，令我們可以以陸路前往，這個古城很值得到訪，不要錯過。
明根主要有三大景點：1) 佛廟，2) 大鐘，3) Settawya 白塔。
Taking the ferry is the most common way to Mingun. However, there is only one ferry a day taking you in and out - 9am depart from Mandalay, 1pm back to Mandalay. Since we spent the morning in the Monastery, we won't make it to the ferry to Mingun. Luckily, the guide and driver are very nice to drive us there. This old town is really worth to visit among all. Three main attractions that you should not miss 1) Pahtodawgyi Temple, 2) Big Bell, 3) Settawaya White Pagoda.
佛廟本應有150米高，但當時有預言指如果佛廟完工，便是皇帝的死期，所以最終只建了50米。
Pahtodawgyi Temple was planned to be 150 meters high, but a prophecy said that the date to complete the entire monastery will be the death of the emperor, as a result, it was build only with 1/3 of the height - 50 meters.
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手指攝鏡 Excuse for my finger |
之後遇上地震，令整座佛廟充滿裂痕，表面高低不平。在沒有其他人幫助下，獨自跳過石縫會有點吃力和危險，所以某些當地人都視幫助遊客在佛塔上行走為賺外快方法之一，通常會有兩個人幫助你，過程10-15分鐘，最後會向你索取5美元，說是資助村校發展。當我們說沒有美金，只有緬甸幣，他們面露不悦，再次要求美金，我十分反感，最後把我們僅有的緬甸幣(約10元港幣) 給他們，他們只有兩個選擇1) 要；2) 唔要！雖然口裡說不，雙手卻很誠實。
In 1839, earthquake occurred and huge cracks are left on the surface of the temple. The uneven ground caused danger to cross alone and would be a hard work to do it. As a result, some local would offer you assistance and also one of the ways to make some money. In my case, two guys helped me and they shown me around for 10-15 minutes. At last they asked me for USD5 as a support to their village high school. When we said we do not have USD but Myanmar Kyat, their faces show unhappy and insisted only accept USD. It made me feel disgusting and I just gave them my remaining Kyat (around HKD10). Either take it or leave it. Of cos, they show 100% unwilling but they took it anyways.
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地震留下的烙印 ruined by earthquake |
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在塔頂 on top of the temple |
明根大鐘特別之處是全世界最大加上仍然能敲響的大鐘，俄羅斯的是大，但因崩了一角，所以只作觀賞，不能敲響。
The Big Bell in Mingun is the largest in the world which is also still functioning. The largest one is in Russia, but since that is broken and no longer functioning.
遊客除了敲鐘外，亦可以走進鐘裡感受被噸位大鐘包圍的感覺。現在回想其實都有危險性，萬一支撐大鐘的支架斷掉，我們便會被困在裡面，不知要多更才能被救出來。
We can ring the bell and also go into the bell to feel how shocking to be embraced by this ton-weight-metal. It could be very danger when the supporting of the bell broken. We would be grounded inside and have no idea when to be rescued. 
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我們的導遊 Our Pretty Guide |
明根最最最吸引我的是Settawya白塔！！！！我被一輯僧侶走在波浪形石牆上的相片吸引著，紅色袈裟、棕色皮膚、純白佛塔和藍天，簡單但留下很深刻的記憶。
The most attractive in Mingun would be the Settawya White Pagoda. I saw a set of photos with some monks walking on the wavy wall of the Pagoda. The photos are quite simple but with a contrast between the red robes, brown skin tone, pure white pagoda and the blue sky which could give you a unforgettable memory.
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Im here ...Hello |
午飯時間，到訪一間緬甸菜家庭餐廳吃飯，這裡雖然是遊客必到，但收費合理，4美元換來飽餐一頓！沒有當地人或導遊，相信很難自行前往。
The guide recommended us a local Myanmar restaurant for lunch. It serves traditional Myanmar cuisine. Although it is a tourist spot, the price is reasonable, only USD4 for a meal. Also, without a guide or local, a tourist would not know this place.
傳統緬甸菜會配以多種配菜，加主菜咖哩，無限添白飯和配菜，還送上一盤新鮮蔬菜。
Traditional Myanmar cuisine included lots of small side dishes and a curry as mains. Customers could have all you can eat rice and side dishes plus a basket of fresh vegetable.
下午行程到訪Sagaing兩個地方：烏敏東色寺（U Min Thonze Cave) 和實皆山。原本亦想去貢慕都佛塔(Kaunghmudaw Pagoda)，又名奶塔，但距離相對較遠，所以導遊不建議前往。別名奶塔因為這佛塔是模擬皇后的乳房而建造，外形不是一般尖頂佛塔的模樣，而是整個外形圓混，我也是出於好奇心想親眼證實真偽，最後亦能在實皆山遠挑那金碧輝煌的乳房，有機會一定要前往。
We spent our afternoon in Sagaing for U Min Thonze Cave and Sagaing Hill. We planned to visit Kaunghmudaw Pagoda. Because of the shape, it also called Boob Pagoda. However, it is far from where we were, we cannot have a close look of it, just overlooked it from Sagaing Hill. It was built according to the breast of the queen, that's why it does have a sharp top but the entire is round and smooth. I was so curious to confirm in person. Perhaps, next time.
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烏敏東色寺 U Min Thonze Cave |
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烏敏東色寺 U Min Thonze Cave |
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烏敏東色寺 U Min Thonze Cave |
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烏敏東色寺 U Min Thonze Cave |
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可能後面寫著｢請勿躺臥｣ Perhaps the Myanmar word behind me is saying DO NOT LAY ON THE SEAT |
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可愛的司機 Our Driver |
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遠挑貢慕都佛塔 Overlooking Kaunghmudaw Pagoda |
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由實皆山 View from Saigaing Hill |
今天的重點行程，亦是這一趟旅程的重點就是烏本橋日落！到達時仍未開始日落，可一次看到日景和晚景，Perfect!!
Last but not least, we ended the day with the sunset in U Bein Bridge! It was still having day light when we arrived which means we could see both the before sunset and after sunset view. Its a nice ending, isnt it?
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We have a photo bomber!! |
以下是導遊和的士司機的資料 Details of the guide and driver
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