Monday, 25 July 2016

[2016 北京 Beijing] 遊胡同 細說歷史 Hutong Adventure Enjoy the History

早上到了徐記燒餅舖吃早餐,他們除了燒餅還有豆腐丸子湯,看到排隊的人都是點一份燒餅一份丸子湯,然後胡同放著長枱,客人便找個位置吃飯,吃得津津有味。我們都點了兩個燒餅和一份丸子湯,坐在胡同裡當個本地人。
We had our breakfast in the XuJiaXiao local pastry shop in the morning. They offer not only the baked chinese pastry pocket, but also the soup with tofu and meatball. People who lined up have their own set of pastry and soup and started enjoy their meal at the table in the Hutong. We also ordered two pastries and the soup, to be a local in the Hutong.

丸子湯的湯很清,除了肉丸和豆腐,還加了一些蔥花和韭菜,但相信湯的精粹是紅色的麻醬。老板把湯和所有配料放在碗裡後,便再加入一大匙麻醬。
The soup is clear soup with tofu and meatballs, adding the chopped spring onion and chives for additional flavors. Last but not least is the red sesame paste on top. The chef put all the ingredients into the bowl and added a big spoon of the sesame paste. 



湯的味道偏鹹,所以連豆腐和丸子一起吃便剛剛好。我平時也不習慣吃湯麵時多喝口湯,所以這個偏鹹的丸子湯我更加不能把湯喝清光,只能把豆腐和丸子吃光。
It tastes a bit salty, as a result, it serves perfect together with the tofu and meatballs. I am not used to drink the soup when I have soup noodles. So I just had the meatballs and tofu dipped with some soup and paste rather than finished the entire bowl of soup.

吃飽四處逛逛,這裡最多就是胡同,胡同就是北京的特式!胡同裡就是四合院,另一個北京特式。
We wandered around the area after the meal and explored more of the Hutong, the key feature in Beijing. Inside the Hutong is the Chinese courtyard house, another special in Beijing.




走著走著,遇上一位老太太,她主動問我們是否遊客,看我們對胡同和四合院感興趣,更說要帶我們遊覽介紹。原來她兒時就住在這裡,今天特地回來看看舊居懷緬一番。舊居仍然存在,可惜已經被改建為十多間的劏房,找不到兒時在舊居種的大樹,找不到那個種滿蔬菜的花園,找不到自己的房間,找不到時常偷東西吃的廚房。她覺得這十多年北京變化很大,政府不斷清拆具歷史價值的古建築,只管在市內大興土木,建造圖利的項目,沒有做好文化保育,對於老北京人來說每當有與自己一同成長的歷史建築被清拆,她形容是在割走身上一塊肉。她說著說著,居然一時感觸,流起淚來。
While we walked along the streets, we met an old lady. She asked if we are tourists and would like to show us around since we were interested in the Hutong and Houses. She was living in this area when she was a kid. Today she came back to take a look and refreshed her memory. The house she lived in was still here, but it is now reconstructed as a 10-unit house for 10 families. She can’t see the old tree planted in the courtyard. She can’t see the garden with flower and vegetables. She can’t find her room. She can’t find the kitchen she used to steal food from. She told us that Beijing has changed a lot over the decades. The government decided to dismantle the historical buildings because they want to generate more revenue via the newly planned construction projects. At the same time, they neglected the culture development and protection. This fact hurts every single old Beijinger because they grow up with these historical architecture. When there is dismantle of old buildings, she has lost a part of her.  She started to cry while telling us the history.



現今四合院內側 Inside the Chinese Courtyard House Nowadays
老太太是有識之士,年輕時當化學工程師,長駐俄羅斯工廠,精通俄語。現在退休了,閒時喜歡寫書,主要是記錄關於老北京的歷史和舒發個人對北京的鍾愛,希望在有生之年把舊時的北京記錄下來讓年青一代回顧。
The old lady is an intellectual and worked as a chemistry engineer in Russia when she was young.  She speaks good Russian. After she retired, she becomes an author writing books about the history of Beijing, and share her affection towards Beijing. She hopes to let the next generation know about the old Beijing and kept a history for their review.  

告別老太太便回到hostel,認真參觀四合院和住了多天的環境。四周的傢俱看似是古董,我們的睡床、衣櫃﹑書桌和大門窗框都是翻新了的木製品,古色古香。
After we said bye to the old lady, we headed back to the hostel. We would like to take the last chance to explore the place we lived for a couple of days. The hostel is surrounded by the antique ( seems like…) such us the bed, the closet, the desk, the door frame and the window frame. They are all very nice and elegant which suitable for the environment and ambiance.  





之前每晚回來大家都圍在庭園裡聊天,更有師傅來說佛,但我們不是太疲倦便是要早起,所以都沒有精神參與。他們一見我們回來便主動問我們要不要一起喝杯茶,初次見面已經十分好客,然後又拿出小食一起分享。
The guests and the host stayed together in the courtyard every night to social and mangle. We have seen a master came to share the Buddhism as well. However, we did not join them once because we were either too tired of the day or needed to wake up early morning. They asked if we would like to have tea together when they saw us back. They showed us great hospitality and shared with us the snack. 




忘記了這是那裡的小食,質地跟寫毛筆字的宣紙很像,但比較脆和帶微甜,也許夾上配料一起吃會更好。
I don’t remember where does the snack from in China. The texture is like the paper used for chinese calligraphy, but more crispy and sweet. Perhaps it tastes better with some other ingredients.


我手上的是宣紙  I'm holding the calligraphy paper.
我帶著沒太多期望的心情來到北京,一心只覺得這裡不會和其他內地城市有甚麼區別,但原來我錯了。我以小人之心度君子之腹,經常保持警覺性,深怕每人都想掏光我的錢,但原來他們都是大好人。每當花多點時間溝通,不只是留於表面的交流,會發現他們都有一顆「為人民服務」的心,雖然生計是重要,但更想令你開心。
I came to Beijing without high expectation; thinking here would not be a big difference with other cities in China I have been or heard of. However, I was wrong. I used to think all the people approached me as bad and always started alert. I was afraid that they are nice to me just because of my money. Indeed, they are really very nice as a normal human being should be. If I spent more time to communicate with them truly from my heart, the result would be amazing and unexpected. It is important to do business because of their living and family, but they are willing to serve and help you for your sake of happiness.

北京,的確不枉此行!
Beijing is truly an amazing city with wonderful people. 

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