Tuesday, 18 July 2017

[2016 斯里蘭卡 Sri Lanka] Haputale Lipton's Seat X 長途車往Matara 危險打劫

選擇這間民宿的原因正因為一張日出相,在民宿露臺拍攝。但現實與理想總有段距離,我們看到的只有濃霧和密雲,難以看到太陽。
The reason choosing Bawa Guesthouse is because of a sunrise photo taken from the balcony. However, there is always a difference between the expectation and reality. The good weather did not stay with us during our stay. We can hardly see the sun.

Source: Booking.com Bawa Guesthouse
REALITY 現實
早餐時間遇上住在其他房屋的背包客,談起昨夜停電事件,他們均表示他們的單位沒有停電。原來我們和他們的房屋所在位置不同,供電系統不一樣,他們未有受影響,多麼幸運!
Breakfast is the time to social with other backpackers, as always. We shared the power cut incident last night. It was a surprised that they did not have the same issue because their building located in another side which the power supply is different. That's why they were not affected. Lucky them. 


Tuk Tuk司機Khan準時出現,他一邊駕駛一邊為我們介紹特別的地方,又停車讓我們拍照。來到一個半山的拍攝點,Khan建議我們可以停一停,這裡能俯視山下全境。他必定經常為遊客充當攝影師,因為他能掌握神的拍攝角度,照片很有動感。
Our Tuk Tuk driver named Khan. He showed up on time and also acted as our tour guide, introduced us the places came across and also stopped for us for photo time. We arrived at a photo spot in mid level of the mountain. Khan suggested to stop and enjoy the panorama view of the town. I believed he brings his guests here often and also very good at taking pictures for them with a right angle. The picture he took looks really great and full of motion. 


同時我有不安的感覺,因為他有意無意間觸碰我的手臂和大腿,令我出現被輕薄的感覺,我即時告知Moritz希望他都能提高警覺,必要時為我解圍。完成拍照,正當我們打算回到Tuk Tuk繼續前進,Khan問我們有多重,然後把Moritz抱起,說他很輕; 在他想把我抱起前,我立即鑽入Tuk Tuk促他馬上開車,此舉應該令他不悅。
Meanwhile, I started feeling uncomfortable because Khan touched my arm or thigh while talking to me. I can't tell if he was doing it with or without intention, but I definitely feel it is like sexual harassment. I told Moritz about this and alert him to save me if needed. Right after the picture time, we decided to go back to the Tuk Tuk and continue our journey. Khan wanted to know how heavy we are and lifted up Moritz immediately. He said Moritz is light. Of cos he then came to me and wanted to do the same. Before he did that to me, I ran back to the Tuk Tuk and urge him to continue the journey, which he was obviously not happy about that. 

Khan很喜歡開玩笑,每10分鐘他就說說笑,但我因為內急,加上被他的密集式冷笑話弄得很不耐煩,不感雀躍,要回應冷笑話覺得很疲倦。他提意拍照,但被我拒絕,他便問我為甚麼來旅遊沒有笑容、甚麼照都不拍、不夠relax, 又分享他和另一對德國情侶的經歷,說他們很隨和、臉上經常掛上笑容、女友經常親男友,表現和氣氛很好。他說既然我們是夫妻(我們說謊了), 為什麼不見我們親咀,更要求我們在他面前親咀。天啊!這個瘋子!
Khan is full of humor (or too much humor), every 10 minutes he will tell you a joke. I was in an urgency for toilet. His intensive bad jokes indeed annoyed me and I did not find them funny. He always expected us to give response made me feel tired. He suggested to take more pictures at another spot but I refused. He asked me why I was giving a bitch face, refusing taking pictures while travelling should be a happy thing, and I was so tense. He shared with us the experience with a German couple which was his guests - they are a chilled couple and always wearing a smile on their face. The girl always kisses the boyfriend and the feeling was so great. He said if we are really husband and wife (we lied), why didn't he see us being intimate with each other or kissing each other. He also requested us to kiss in front of him. Damn. He is a freak!

採茶女 Tea picking Ladies
往山上拐了數十個彎,終於看到Lipton's Seat的招牌,成功登頂!這裡有很多猴子,他們專門偷遊客的背包,所以要十分小心!
We went higher and higher, made so many turns, finally arrived at Lipton's Seat. Monkeys are the thief here. They always target at the backpacks of the tourist. Please pay special attention!


探完Lipton爺爺,可以到旁邊一間簡陋但舒適的茶座,喝杯茶吃些小點心休息,天氣好還可以看到整個茶園景色。
A cozy teahouse is just next to Mr Lipton. It gives tourist a rest time to enjoy the view, eat some snack and sip a cup of tea. If the weather is good, the view will be awesome. 



遠處看到Khan和茶座員工聊天,他沒有催促我們下山,好讓他接其他生意,這令我感到意外。
We saw Khan sitting at another table and chatting with the staff. It was a surprised to me that he didn't urge us to move so that he could look for another business once get rid of us. 
He made the customer the tea :)

我們要求到茶工廠參觀,整個過程約15-20分鐘,把新鮮茶葉烘乾、篩去雜質、分類再細分等級、炒茶然後包裝,品茶充滿學問,我不懂但在工廠看到令我驚訝的事實:參觀人士無需穿上任何保護衣物便可直接進入工場,我們可以隨意觸碰茶葉,拿起來嗅嗅,然後再放回機器,地上佈滿茶葉碎,我們就是邊踩邊參觀,看到員工掃在一邊,我懷疑他們會再重用出售。整體覺得衛生情況很差,亦是我永遠都會先沖洗茶葉茶包才飲用的原因。
After Lipton's Seat, we visited the tea factory. The visit last for 15-20 minutes. We got to know the full process from washing, drying, rolling, steaming, then  grading, pan frying and packaging. We did n't have tea tasting and it is not something I understand with a cup of tea. It is a life-long learning culture. At the same time, we found out some surprising facts - no visitor required to wear special protection clothing to enter the factory, you may wear your flip flop or swimming suit i believe. We could touch the tea leaves whenever we want; we could pick them up and sniff them, drop them back to the track.  There were  lots of  tea leaves  on the floor and it was hard to not stepping on them during the visit. The staff will sweep the tea leaves aside and I wonder they will recycle them or put them back to the track, and ended up for sale....Overall speaking, the hygiene of the factory is really bad and not acceptable. It is highly recommend to rinse the tea once before drinking.  



參觀完工廠Khan載我們回市區Khan的任務也完成,我恨不得快點跟他說再見,再多對他一會,我一定會很討厭他。我們必須先由Haputale坐巴士到Wellawaya,然後轉乘另一輛巴士到Matara他不斷遊說我們多加LKR 2500坐他Tuk TukWellawaya,只需30分鐘便到達,坐巴士要一小時。Moritz聽後十分反感,覺得他很貪心,便毫不留情說他已經在我們身上賺了許多錢,他一聽我們這麼說便拿出銀包,指自己有三個小朋友,最細的只有幾個月大,負擔很重,但我看到的是他穿金戴銀,不是口中說那麼窮。
Khan took us back to the town after the visit and it was time to say goodbye ( I was so looking forward to this moment. If I have to see him a second longer, I am afraid I will punch on his face.)  We first took the bus from Haputale to Wellawaya, then switched another one to Matara.  Khan really wanted more business. He kept persuading us to pay LKR2500 more so he will take us to Wellawaya, only 30 minutes compared to 1 hour bus. Moritz was very disappointed of what he said and said he is a greedy man. He pointed out that Khan already earned lots of money from us. Khan heard us and took out his wallet immediately. He showed us the picture of his three kids and said the youngest one is just a few months old. To support the whole family is a tough job for him. However, I saw him wearing a nice watch and a gold necklace which tell me he should not be the poorest in town.
HaputaleMatara即是由斯國中南部到最南部,車程接近7小時,兩程巴士,同一天體驗兩種不同氣候,由長衫長褲加外套變成短衫短褲沙灘裝。遇到已退休伯伯當我們的巴士導遊,講解沿途所見,分享自己好像住在一個森林,因為經常有動物到訪,猴子是常客,不時也有大象在晚上出末、遇見外表像歷蘇的好心農夫,不諳英語,但非常熱情與我們對話,還送我們斯國小食、當然還有斯國巴士特色,強勁節奏音樂,所以全程由白天坐到黃昏到夜晚我都沒有睡意,只有身體感到疲倦。
From Haputale to Matara, it  takes 7 hours with two buses, from the Central province to the South. Within the same day, we experienced two different climates. I switched my long trousers  and jacket with a T-shirt and short. In our bus journey, we met an old man who has retired and became our bus tour guide. He told us he felt like his neighborhood is a jungle because animals are always found and monkeys are the more popular visitors. Sometimes, elephants will come at night for food as well. We also met a farmer who looks like N!xau (the African farmer who performed in a few movies in very popular in 90's). Although he cannot speak English, we can still communicate with body language and he is very passionate to talk to us. He also gave us a pack of Sri Lanka snack before he left.  The entire bus ride last from day time to night time with music non-stop playing. I did not feel tired or sleepy except the body was physically tired. 
到達Matara已經是晚上7時,天已黑,要先到已預訂的民宿登記才真正休息。Moritz已經感到非常疲憊,只想快點可以休息,沒有閒情跟Tuk Tuk司機議價便上車了即使折合只是港幣一角幾毫的分別,我對這個決定仍十分不滿。想起Khan跟我們說Matara的治安很差,要特別小心搶劫,我一秒都沒有鬆懈。
It was 7pm when we arrived Matara. It was dark and we still had to take a short ride to the guesthouse before resting. Mortiz was exhausted and wanted to take a good rest as soon as possible. Without negotiate the fare with the Tuk Tuk driver, he got on the Tuk Tuk. I understood it was just a couple of dollars in Hong Kong, but I still feel a bit not cool. Suddenly, the bell in my mind rang and I thought of what Khan told us - Be careful in Matara. The security is not good, especially for robbery. I stayed alert.  
司機把我們載到小巷,兩邊只有不同的房屋,沒有街燈,我根本不知道自己在那裡,MortizGPS查看方向是正確的,沿路我瞪緊GPS的藍點確保沒有差錯
The Tuk Tuk headed to some alleys and the two sides were only houses with street light. I had no clues where we were and Moritz told me we were at the right direction based on the GPS. I stared at the blue dot on the GPS to ensure everything were on the right track. 
開始鬆一口氣,這時司機停車,說這裡就是目的地,我看到門牌根本就不相同,他便改口說是朋友開設的民宿,我們入住可以有折扣。我跟他說我們已付錢租住另一間,請他送我們去,加上只餘下百多米距離。突然出現了兩名標形大漢,我心涼了半截,是要打劫嗎?
Stay back and relax. The Tuk Tuk stopped and driver told me we arrived.  How can I trust you while the number on the door is not showing what I asked for. He then changed and said this is a friends' guesthouse and we could have discount. I told him we already paid for what we book and requested him to bring us there. We knew it was just around the corner. At the same time, two muscular men showed up and I was frightened. Are they going to rob us?


<待續 / To be continued...>

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